Many coverlet owners have wrestled with identifying some features of coverlets. The most difficult area is what sort of loom technologies were used to produce specific coverlets before 1840. Scholars have rightly pointed out that the coverlet itself cannot always answer this question.
So far the history of actual use of specific types of weaver-controlled or automated patterning mechanisms for extensive inscriptions and pictorial patterns in America has not been comprehensively documented. Articles by Virginia Parslow Partridge and Rita J. Adrosko, in Made In New York State remain the best surveys of this topic, although research continues.
It has been said that the Jacquard-type mechanism was mainly installed on handlooms, although this can’t be determined by looking at coverlets. Power from a water wheel or steam engine was widely possible by the last quarter of the 18th century. Factory-spun cotton yarns introduced before 1800 made power looms much more workable. Tied weave structures (such as summer-and-winter and those called ‘beiderwand’) and patterns with many small figures in doublecloth also deterred warp stretching and eased using power looms.
A few pictorial coverlets exist in some twill structures, which also would make for a more consistent shed. One brought to my attention dated 1833, by J. Hausman, looks to be in a summer-winter structure with an unusual interlacement. If these were as uncommonly woven as it now appears, I’d like to be able to ask the producers why they used these structures at all.
Woven dates have their own uncertainties. They could commemorate a client’s date of birth or marriage rather than the date woven. Of the geometric-design coverlets, some inscriptions appear to have been produced by a loom-control means; others were inlaid on the loom in a “pickup” method. Since photographs have limitations, it is not always obvious whether some might have been embroidered.
The year 1831 saw an explosion of weavers’ advertisements and pictorial coverlets– an explanation for this has not been documented.
While many coverlet weavers can be found in pre-1831 tax assessment rolls, such as Jacob Bender in Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania in 1826, they are not included here. Despite the questions, a look at chronology reflected in coverlets and advertisements gives one picture of trends.
GEOMETRIC-PATTERN COVERLETS: WOVEN INSCRIPTIONS AND EARLY ADS
Our most commonly seen are four-harness overshot coverlets, with their astonishing variety in design. The earliest known woven dates are 1771 and 1773, and the latest I know of is 1846. “Tied Beiderwand,” multiple-harness overshot coverlets of the “starwork” type and of the type with other twill-like designs (and sometimes tulips, trees and men) are not known with dates. Rare coverlets in structures such as boundweave and “M’s and O’s,” have not been found with woven-in dates.
Summer-and-winter coverlets are less commonly found, and of those few with woven dates the earliest I have seen is 1817 and the latest 1848.
Multiple-harness free plain doublecloth coverlets with geometric patterns, bearing dates, names and other inscriptions from Long Island, New York, are now famous, thanks to the work of Susan Rabbit Goody. The earliest known date on these is 1810, and the latest I know of, of this type, is 1831. Here again, the dates may reflect birth dates or marriage dates rather than when woven. A few others share the Long Island inscriptions’ format as being woven to read warp-wise in one border, but differ in method and their provenance is unknown; one shown below reads “JANU Y 1 1828” in one loom width's end border, and “H OAKLEY” in the other loom width's border.
Another small group,
with names only, again woven to read warp-wise, may have originated in Westchester County, New York (related-pattern coverlets with no inscription also are known). The names on known examples are M. Ferris, Sally Baker, Eliza Townsend, E. Moseman, Sarah Smith and H. Fowler. Clusters of related families lived on Long Island and in Westchester, so this design format may have a common origin in one or a group of weavers. While their dating may be contemporaneous with those dated in the 1820s or earlier, their time of production has not yet been documented.
Selected ads, weaving coverlets [c]; weaving carpet,
coverlets and/or carpet coverlets [cc]
Oct. 28, 1737 John Ewan, Philadelphia, Philadelphia County, PA [c]
March 3, 1775 Stephen Miner, Stonington, New London County, CT [c]
Oct. 23, 1790 Frederick Baugh, Philadelphia, Philadelphia County, PA [c]
July 15, 1793 Nicholas Mayer, Northern Liberties, Philadelphia County, PA [c]
Sep. 22, 1795 Thomas Brysland, Carlisle, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania [c]
Selling lot on Bedford St., Carlisle with log house, log stable and brick weavers shop; will also sell farming utensils, household goods and two Weavers Looms for raised work. For terms apply to owner living on the premises.Nov. 18, 1795 Robert McBride, Cotton Factory in Carlisle, Cumberland County, Pennsylvania [c]
wanted Journeyman Weaver, who can weave with a flying shuttle. Purchased loom, for raised work, from Mr. Thomas Brysland, of whom he received instruction for weaving double and single Coverlids, Diaper and White Counterpains
Aug. 3, 1796 William Dawson, Carlisle, Cumberland County, PA [c]
June 13, 1797 Thomas Thompson, Blooming Grove, Orange County, NY [cc]
July 18, 1797 Joseph Schrack, Fancy Weaver, Berks County, PA [c]
Oct. 26, 1797 Joseph Cherry, White Plains, Westchester County, NY [cc]
April 25, 1799 Henry Arnold, Hagerstown, Washington County, MD [cc]
Dec. 30, 1799 Gawin I. Beatty, Harrisburg, Dauphin County, PA [c]
Nov. 3, 1801 John L. Cole, Bridgetown, Middlesex County, NJ [c] offered to teach diaper and spread weaving up to 20 harnesses
Aug. 7, 1802 Jacob Garlick, Philadelphia County, PA [c] located near Foundry on the Schuylkill
Jan. 29, 1803 Nicholas Mayer, Philadelphia County, PA, moved to Second St. in new Union Row [c]
March 30, 1803 Robert Douglass, Hagerstown, Washington County, Maryland [cc]
Sep. 10, 1803 Hugh McGonnigal, near Fort Fayette, Allegheny County, PA [c]
July 18, 1804 Adam Maguire, Nashville, Davidson County, TN [c]
Oct. 31, 1804 Thomas Garrett, Hagerstown, Washington County, MD [cc]
April 9, 1805 John Bantz, Frederick Town, Frederick County, MD [cc]
Aug 13, 1805 John Philip Schneider, Frederick County, MD [c]
March 21, 1806 James Armstrong, Carlisle, Cumberland County, PA [c]
April 29, 1808 William Morrow, Charlestown, Jefferson County, (West) VA [c]
March 5, 1810 Abel English, Burlington, Burlington County, NJ [c]
March 27, 1810 John Knight, Galway, Saratoga County, NY [cc]
April 3, 1810 Daniel Stover, Mercersburg, Franklin County, PA [cc]
Jan. 2, 1811 Jacob Miller, near Sharpsburg, Washington County, MD [cc]
June 10, 1811 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [cc] new shop one door below his former residence, Wheeling street
Nov. 18, 1811 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [cc] wants Journeyman for coverlet, carpeting and diaper work
Sep. 4, 1811 James Strong, Marsh Creek, Adams County, PA [c]
Dec. 16, 1811 James Burns, Canton Twp., Washington County, PA [c] reward for return of runaway coverlet and diaper weaving apprentice
May 18, 1812 Thomas Miller & Co. Factory, Chillicothe,, Ross County, OH [cc]
July 18, 1812 John Robertson, Ross County, OH [c]
Oct. 21, 1812 Walter Potts, Level Corner, Lycoming County, PA [c]
Sep. 27, 1813 Coverlet and Diaper Weavers, Washington County, PA [c]
Met September 11 to set prices. Signers: Thomas Briceland, Wm. Herron, Wm. Robinson, Robert Ford, David Briceland, Arch’d McCann
Oct. 4, 1813 William Robinson, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
Nov. 24, 1813 Crumpton & Smith, Chillicothe, Ross County, OH [c]
Feb. 2, 1814 John Lamon, Charlestown, Jefferson County, (West) VA [cc]
Sep. 23, 1814 William Long, near Shippensburg, Cumberland County, PA [c]
Oct. 17, 1814 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
Mar. 27, 1815 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
All patterns of Coverlet and Diaper done in America, shall be wrought here on a sample being furnished. At his old shop in Wheeling street; now determined not to go volunteering, until his adopted country require his services as a soldier
July 31, 1815 Fred Imhoff, near Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
Oct. 18, 1815 Charles Coburn, near Ballston Springs, Saratoga County, NY [cc]
Nov. 20, 1815 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
Feb. 2, 1816 John Lamon, Charlestown, Jefferson County, (West) VA [cc]
April 1, 1816 William Robinson, Washington County, PA [c]
Figured Weaving
April 29, 1816 Archibald McCann, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
at old shop on Wheeling StreetApril 29, 1816 John Boal, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c] began business in Archibald McCann’s former shop, April 1
June 3, 1816 John Glaze, Mercersburg, Franklin County, PA [c]
April 2, 1817 John Wimmer, Charlestown, Jefferson County, (West) VA [c]
April 21, 1817 James and Robert McMillen, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
in the shop on Wheeling street lately occupied by A. McCannMarch 7, 1818 Thomas Makinson, Lancaster, Lancaster Co., PA [c]
May 20, 1818 John Robertson, 4 mi. from Chillicothe, Ross County, OH [c]
Jan. 11, 1819 Thomas Briceland, Canonsburg, Washington County, PA [c] advertises for Journeyman and for an apprentice
April 14, 1819 Sally G. Kennedy, Pittsfield, Berkshire County, MA [cc]
Dec. 6, 1819 David Merryman, Canonsburgh, Washington County, PA [c]
Dec. 20, 1820 John Briceland and David B. Merryman, near Canonsburgh, Washington County, PA [c] in house formerly of Thos. Briceland
Feb. 21, 1820 William Robinson, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c], north end of Main Street
May 3, 1820 George, Oswald and Thomas Patchel, West Chester Borough, Chester County, PA [c]
June 20, 1820 John B. Welty, Boonsboro, Washington County, MD [cc]
June 27, 1820 Jacob Fort, Schoharie, Schoharie County, NY [cc]
Oct. 9, 1820 Samuel Ray, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
Jan. 20, 1821 Robert Craig, Steubenville, Jefferson County, OH [c]
March 10, 1821 Michael Courtney, Monongalia County, (West) VA [c]
Oct. 1, 1821 William Herron, Strabane Twp., Washington County, PA [c]
Jan. 3, 1822 James H. Hennion, Parsippany, Morris County, NJ [c]
Oct. 1, 1822 E. Stanley, Canandaigua, Ontario County, NY [cc]
May 5, 1823 William Robeson, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [cc]
at head of Market St.; can weave Table Linen, Diaper, &c. the full breadth of two yards.
June 17, 1823 H. Hayford, Rochester, Monroe County, New York [cc]
July 28, 1823 Erastus Stanley, Canandaigua, Ontario County, NY [cc]
Sept. 23, 1823 Thomas Fleming, broadloom weaving, Washington County, MD [c]
March 25, 1824 Hannah Bissell, Richmond, Berkshire County, MA [cc]
Sept. 13, 1824 Robert Willson, near Washington Borough (near South-Buffalo Meeting-house), Washington County, PA [c] at house of John McMillan Jun.
Nov. 30, 1824 Daniel Stover, Washington County, MD [cc]
also Blue Dying plus Red, Green, Yellow and Black; at Cross Roads, about 2 miles from Hagers-town & 2 from Funks-town
May 4, 1825 George Dietterick, Lansing Town, Tompkins County, NY [cc]
May 30, 1825 Andrew Cassidy, West Middletown, Washington County, PA [cc]
Aug. 17, 1825 Eagle Woollen Factory, Ithaca, Tompkins County, NY; Fancy Weaving by J. Conger; Jno. Bridges, Prop. [cc]
Aug. 16, 1826 Jacob Hunciker, Williamsport, Lycoming County, PA [c]
Feb. 19, 1827 John Feighner, Canton, Stark County, OH [c]
Apr. 28, 1827 John and Samuel Best, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA; just moved from Canton Twp. [cc]
Oct. 9, 1827 Jacob Galley, Tyrone Twp., Fayette County, PA [cc]
Feb. 14, 1828 Daniel Stover, Washington County, MD [c]
selling farming and household goods and one coverlet loom, dye kettles and other articles appertaining to the weaving and dying businessApril 11, 1828 Valentine Leopold, Canton, Ross County, OH [cc]
April 11, 1828 John Shoemaker, Canton, Ross County, OH [c]
Nov. 8, 1828 Peter Kennedy, Washington Borough, Washington County, PA [c]
worked under father several years; from Steubensville, OH
Nov. 13, 1828 William Vallett, Stockbridge, Berkshire County, MA [cc]
April 21, 1829 E. N. Faxton, Geneseo, Livingston County, NY [cc]
Oct. 29, 1829 Valentine Bohn, Greencastle Borough, Franklin County, PA, selling house, land, weaving shop, coverlet and plain looms [c]
Oct. 27, 1830 Adams County Jail, Gettysburg, Adams County, PA [cc]
PICTORIAL CURVILINEAR-DESIGN COVERLETS AND WEAVERS
Of coverlets in summer-and-winter structure, none are known dated before 1835. Extremely rare single-weave, twill and “true Beiderwand” coverlets are not known with dates before 1831. Of the plentiful coverlets in the tied Beiderwand structure, none are known dated before 1831.
Coverlets in free plain doublecloth are much more widely known. Examples known to be James Alexander’s products are documented in his Accounts Book, dating 1821-1828. Others by unknown weavers bear dates from 1822 (“Agriculture & Manufacture”), 1823 (recumbent cow in border) and 1829 (“American Independence”). A group from central NY bear 1830 dates:
from Scipio (Cayuga County), Southport (Chemung), Pompey (Onondaga), Benton, Orange County, and Ithaca (Tompkins). Dates on Long Island pictorial doublecloth coverlets also are known beginning with 1830, ending in the 1860s.
Selected pre-1831 ads, weaving figured / flowered coverlets,
carpet coverlets; or ingrain carpeting and coverlets [icc]
May 16, 1818 James Aikens, Orange County, NY
June 1, 1818 James Alexander & John Gibbs, Orange County, NY
Oct. 1819 Mrs. Ann Wilson was awarded first premium for a carpet coverlid by the Rensselaer Agricultural Society; reported Troy, NY: October 12, 1819 [
The Plough Boy (Albany, NY), Sat., November 6, 1819 Vol. 1, issue 23, p. 182] [weaver unstated]
June 11, 1823 William Sherwood, Ridgefield, Fairfield County, CT [icc] just installed an ingrain carpet loom
Nov. 22, 1823 Hugh Gilroy, near Hillsborough, Washington County, PA;
coverlets of every pattern; flowered, chequered, diamond and Venitian carpetting with a variety of other fashionable and fancy patterns; experience in one of the most extensive factories in Europe.
April 27, 1824 George Mason, Ryegate Town, Caledonia County, VT;
Will put any flower on cloth that is possible to be drawn on paper.
Aug. 16, 1824 Hugh Gilroy, moved to Bealville, Washington County, PA [cc]
Aug. 17, 1825 Eagle Woollen Factory, Ithaca, Tompkins County, NY [cc]
Fancy Weaving by J. Conger; Jno. Bridges, Prop.Oct. 21, 1825 Hugh Gilroy was awarded First Premium of $2 for best coverlets at Washington County, PA Agricultural Exhibition [c]
June 21, 1827 Jeremiah Van Riper, Riverhead, Suffolk County, NY [icc]
Sep. 24, 1828 Josiah Cass, Forestville, Chautauqua County, NY
March 26, 1829 Wm. McDannell, Clear Spring, Washington County, MD.
dissolved partnership with Valentine Bohn in Green-Castle, Pa., now renting the house and shop of David Shover.
June 1, 1829 Sidney Allen, Sodus Town, Wayne County, NY [icc]
June 6, 1829 Daniel Haff, Patchogue Woolen Factory, Suffolk County, NY
June 6, 1829 David Kennedy, Wheeling, Ohio County, (West) VA [icc]
July 30, 1829 Kantner & Eichelberger, Scotch figured loom, Hagerstown, Washington County, MD
Nov. 19, 1829 David Pollay & Company, Ithaca, Tompkins County, NY
Jan. 13, 1830 Jonathan Conger, Groton, Tompkins County, NY
Apr. 1, 1830 John F. Kantner Factory, Hagerstown, Washington County, MD
July 3, 1830 Andrew Hoff, Straban Twp., Adams County, PA.
Hitherto carried on plain weaving; now can do all kinds of fancy work.
Updated January 26, 2013
Text and images copyright © 2012-2013 by the author.
